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Archive for November, 2010

Before & After B/W Filter

November 28, 2010 1 comment

Coming are two captures of a traditional Arabic Boat Model first one is a normal take with Nikon D90 and Nikon 35mm lens, the second one in B/W..
[Click the images to enlarge]

























Problem with my D90 Battery

November 26, 2010 4 comments

I have two Batteries(EN-EL3e) for my Nikon D90 (A and B), last time i get the empty signal for one of them (A) and i replace it with the other(B), but i forget to re-charge the empty one(A), i can’t remember for how long time. (15 day’s or more).

Yesterday i run out of charge(B) and then i realize that i did not charge my (A) battery so i pluged it and here is what happen:

When i charged it, the light on the charger started blinking 3 times then stops (no lights). i’d change the charger .. keep the battery in the charge for 6 hours..cleaned the connectors on the battery,,. no thing…

Some websites and posts suggest to Freeze it overnight, so I did 12hours in the freezer.. and no thing.. I think it’s dead.

I think the reason is that I let it to be empty without charges, I will get new one next week and make sure that it will not go to ZERO charge level.
[New one cost $41 in Nikon Agent – Qatar]

Ali,

Photo from Austria 1998 .. Photo #2

November 24, 2010 3 comments

Another photo from Austria 1998, it is a flower clock in Stadtpark. [Click the image to enlarge]


Film camera, Austria-1998, the negatives converted to JPG in 2010.




Click for more detail on ‘Convert Negative to JPG project‘.

Ali,

Photo from Austria 1998

November 22, 2010 1 comment

This is one of the photos come out from ‘Negative to JPG project’, Austria trip in 1998, I think this is Stadtpark not sure. [Click the image to enlarge]

Film camera, Austria-1998, the negatives converted to JPG in 2010.

Convert the Negative to JPG Files..

November 20, 2010 19 comments

We all have lots of old file camera Negatives lots of them are for impotent occasions, we may want to digitalize them for more secure saving or using them in ‘Digital Photo Frame’.

I will list down three ways to Digitalize your Negatives:
1. Take your old Negatives to photo store and they will do the job. 🙂 simple/straight/fast and quality.
2. Buy a new scanner with Negatives adapter.
3. Do it @ home without scanner. How to?? read this article..

To Convert the old film Negative to JPG Files you need..

  • Digital camera with macro lens.
  • Home-made Negatives holder.
  • Speed light, or any other light source.’Florescent/White
  • Photoshop application, or any pro. Photo Editor Software.

My Studio and what been used..

  • Nikon D90.
  • Nikon 105mm VR Macro lens.
  • Nikon SB900 speedlight.
  • My old Negatives. 🙂
  • Home-Made Negatives Holder.

[o] First photo to describe How to create the Negatives Holder..
You Need:

  • White paper size (A):12.5cm x 10.5cm (H*W)
  • Another white/transparent paper size (B): 12cm x 8cm (H*W)
  • Adhesive Tape.
  • Scissors and/or Razor blade.



Front Side Sketch



Back Side Sketch



Real output



Here is the studio set-up:





Now you are ready, slide the Negatives between the tow papers (A & B) adjust the focus and take the shot. [You Must NOT Change the position of the camera, Negative holder or the flash during the session] Here is the results..


The Negative..

Photoshop Time:
Open the Photoshop or any photo editor software (this demo for photoshop)
Menu–> Image –> Adjustment –> Invert (Or Ctrl + I)

Do some more Adjustment for:
[o] Color Balance as shown:
Menu–> Image –> Adjustment –> Color Balance
Tone Balance: Shadows
Color Levels: +100, 0, 0

Tone Balance: Midtones
Color Levels: +100, -1, 0

Tone Balance: Highlight
Color Levels: +56, +15, -21

[o] Brightness/Contrast
Menu–> Image –> Adjustment –> Brightness/Contrast
Brightness : -10



I fond that the above setting and the numbers will vary if we move any part of the studio, so the settings are suite for me 🙂 you have to do some changes to come up with your levels of colors/Brightness/Contrast.

Write down the setting then create an Action (in Photoshop) to apply the setting to a photo, put all the Negatives in a folder (copy of them) then (from photoshop): File –> Automate –> batch and select the folder and the action you just create, click OK. DONE!

All the Negatives in the folder are now a Positive photos, you need to tone up some of them manually as you wish.

Some samples from my Trip to Austria in 1998.













Have Fun …
Ali,

The Eiffel Tower

November 15, 2010 1 comment

One of the most beautiful place that I visit, I went to Paris in 2008 there I use my Sony T100 camera, and here are some of ‘Eiffel Tower‘ photos hope you like it. Here is form information:
Country: France
Capital: Paris
Land Area: 86.9 km²
Population: 12,067,000 (2007)
”Data source: Wikipedia”
About Eiffel Tower
The Eiffel Tower was originally built as a temporary structure to commemorate the centennial of the French Revolution.
It has three floors, the first is at 57m, the second at 115m, and the third at 276m. The top of the aerial is 320 m. above the ground. On a clear day, you can see from the top of the platform, the whole of Paris and the distant suburbs.



I was stand on ” Palais de chaillot, trocadero ” it is wonderful place; lots of people, from there you can watch all the Eiffel.











The Rainbow under Eiffel, it was rainy, sunny and windy day, all together ….. wonderful day.











A shot of Eiffel Tower from Sacre Ceure, you can see all Paris from up there.















Nothing like the Lights and Nights in Paris, AMAZING… here is the Eiffel Tower with it’s blue lights and the European Union Stars.
















More photos are on my Flickr : Hawee – Ta3kees

Ali,

Macro on Fruit

November 12, 2010 7 comments




Macro on Fruit: In this project I set-up my studio to be able to capture/shot the fruit from top, I use my Nikon D90 with tow lenses the Nikon 35mm and Nikon 105mm Macro. Note that the Focal Length of 105mm lens is equivalent to 157mm in 35mm Film.
[Click on the images to see them larger..]

The Studio set-up…
o. Camera Nikon D90. [Nikon 35mm + Nikon 105mm macro]
o. Square Glass. [Size as your studio need]
o. Glass Pyrex dish.
o. Light source.
o. Different type of fruit. [cut to slices or as you want/plan]
o. ML-L3 Wireless Remote Control.


















Here are some shots:

Slice of Orange, I add the reflection and increase the brightness. In this shot I used 35mm lens, listed the other camera setting:
Exposure Time = 1/200″
Focal Length = 35mm [Nikon 35mm f/1.8]
F Number = F1.8
ISO Speed Ratings = 200
Exposure Bias Value = +5EV
Flash = Off

Same Orange with Macro lens,
Exposure Time = 1/320″
F Number = F4
Focal Length = 105mm
ISO = 200
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Light Source = out source
Flash = Off



What is this? Yes, Kiwi Fruit, macro lens with extra brightness; the frame (upper & lower) are a black rectangular with 45% opacity.
Camera Setting:
Exposure Time = 1/80″
F Number = F4
Focal Length = 105mm
ISO Speed = 200
Exposure Bias Value = +5EV




Here is another shot for the Kiwi with 35mm lens.






This is a Lemon, tow images been joined in photoshop to get this..









Camera setting for the shot on the left..
Exposure Time = 1/80″
F Number = F4
ISO Speed = 200
Exposure Bias Value = +5EV
Focal Length = 105mm









The Pomegranate is a wonderful fruit








More photos are on my Flickr : Hawee – Ta3kees

Ali,